Skip to main content
Use your mouse's scroll wheel to zoom in and out


  • Availability: In Stock
  • $49.95$99.95
  • Choose Options
    Please Select
  • Bookmark and Share



2013 Harvest seeds for 2014 -SURVIVAL MIX


25 seed packs/50 seed packs
All of our seed are from the most recent harvest and are hand packaged and labeled  from fresh seed in August 2013. All seeds are from the USA . This is very labor intensive process and each order takes over two hours to put together and does not include the labor involved in growing and harvesting seed. This little project is mostly about making heirloom non - gmo  seeds available to people who might not have access to them at a very reasonable price.  I have put together a set that I would be happy to buy at this price with the variety and seeds offered.

Anyone interested in a survival garden wants seed to store or plant and vegetables to grow that will make your stored food taste better. Think of it as an organic vitamin and flavor garden . Why buy seeds that you don't want and will never eat. We have selected the most popular and useful seeds and combined them into one package.  We have selected the most complete variety for nutrition, ease of growth and most popular variety ranging from garden staples, flavor enhancers, spices and teas....


Moringa Seeds







Natural Bug And Rodent Repellant- Foliar Spray & Perfect Ph Fert. High In Minerals 86 Total!







                  We will include the quantity listed above as a minimum, most likely it will be much more for most of the smaller seeds, as each item is based on a measure after verifying minimum requirement. All seed are from most recent harvest and were packaged from fresh seed in August 2013.



                Planting a vegetable garden is not hard, but without careful planning and proper follow through, your garden may perform poorly.
Soil Preparation
Soils should not be prepared for planting when too wet or too dry. If soil sticks to your shoes or shovel, it is too wet. Press a small amount of soil in your hand. When the moisture is right, the soil crumbles and breaks into small clumps. If it is too wet, it stays molded in a ball.
Have your soil tested for the amount of fertilizer or manure to apply before planting. A routine soil test gives information on any lime requirement, phosphorous and potassium needs and estimated nitrogen requirements. For information on soil testing, call your local county extension educator.
Rake or harrow the planting area immediately after tilling or spading. A firm, fine seedbed is best, particularly for small-seeded crops, but packing the soil too much could promote crusting of the soil surface and damage emerging seedlings. Tilling the soil in late fall facilitates earlier spring planting.
Planting Early Crops
Cool Season Crops
You can sow early "cool-season" crops such as lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and onions immediately after preparing your garden plot. Mark the rows by stretching a string tightly across the area where you want a furrow. Use the corner edge of a long piece of angle iron or aluminum to establish a furrow with a uniform depth.  The use of a hoe handle or shovel may create a furrow with variable depths and result in non-uniform emergence, particularly with small seed vegetable crops.You can usually sow sandy soils a little deeper than clay soils.
Warm Season Crops
Wait until danger of frost is past (mid-to-late May) before transplanting tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and similar "warm season" crops.
Tender Crops
Cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons can be seeded earlier by placing hot caps over the soil one week before planting. This warms the soil and helps those crops germinate more quickly. Keep the hot caps on until the plants emerge and are growing vigorously.
Starting Plants Inside
Warm season crops need a long growing season and usually will not mature if seeded directly in the garden. Cool season crops must mature before hot weather. It is necessary, then, either to start these crops early inside or to buy plants at a garden center or greenhouse. Start seeds in plastic trays or peat pots that are 3-4 inches deep. A good soil mixture contains two parts loam, one part sand, and one part organic matter. Thoroughly mix the soil in a wheelbarrow with a shovel and sift it through a ¼-inch mesh screen. Premixed soil mixtures are available at garden centers.
Fill the transplant tray or peat pots with the soil mixture and carefully firm the soil along the sides. After filling in the depressions, level the soil to about ¼ inch below the top. Firm the soil evenly. Sow the seed by making a ¼-½ inch hole using a dibble or pencil with a tape mark to keep the depth consistent. Sow 2-3 seeds in each tray cell or peat pot.
Start warm-season crops later than cool-season crops. Peppers and eggplant germinate slowly and should be started before tomatoes. Cover the seeds lightly with sand, screened soil, or vermiculite. Gently water the transplant trays using a fine screened waterer to prevent washing the seeds out of the soil. Cover the transplant tray or peat pots with clear plastic and keep in a warm room until germination. As soon as the seedlings appear, remove the plastic cover and keep the seedlings in full sunlight or directly under fluorescent lights. Once the seedlings emerge, thin to one plant and apply a starter fertilizer of 1½ tablespoons of 5-10-5 in 1 gallon of water. Apply approximately ¼ cup of the solution to each seedling every two weeks until transplanting. Rinse the seedlings with water after fertilizing to prevent leaf burn. "Hardening" transplants by shading them for a few days outside using either a lath house or shade cloth and slightly withholding water (but not to the point of wilting) will reduce plant growth delay after transplanting, otherwise known as "transplant shock."
Transplant in late afternoon or on a cool, cloudy, calm day. Water plants well before transplanting. Cut the soil between the plants with a knife so each plant can separate easily with a substantial root ball attached. Seedlings grown in separate containers can be transplanted without disturbing the roots. If seedlings are transplanted in peat pots, make sure the top edge of the peat pot is not exposed above the soil surface or the peat pot will act like a wick and rapidly draw the moisture from the root ball, stressing the plant.
Scrape the dry surface soil from the planting area. With a hand shovel, make a hole large enough to easily receive the root ball of the transplant. Firm the soil around the roots and water with the starter fertilizer solution. Apply ½ cup per plant at planting time.
Transplanted crops may be set out in the garden a week or two before it would otherwise be safe if hot caps are used. Remove the caps after the air temperatures get real warm during the day. If paper hot caps are used, punch ventilation holes in the tops. High temperatures within the hot cap can kill young plants.
Planting Dates and Distances for Garden Vegetables
Planting dates Planting distances (in inches)
Vegetable Start seed indoors Plant seed or plant outdoors Between rows, hand cultivated Between plants Depth of seeding (inches) Amount to order per 20 feet of row



If you have ever wanted to grow your Vegetables Organically, this information will help you. One of the things you need to do is to select plants for your garden that will help control insect pests.

Certain plants contain properties that either invite beneficial insects or repel harmful insects. Beneficial insects prey on pests that cause damage in the garden. Ladybugs and praying mantis are good examples of beneficial bugs.

Using plants for Pest Control not only cuts down on your workload, but it also reduces or eliminates the amount of insecticides that you use in your garden. And fewer insecticides means more good bugs, which in turn means more help in controlling bad bugs. It's called Companion Planting.
It is important that you experiment to find out what works best for your situation. With this thought in mind, it also helps to choose plants that are native to your area. This way beneficial insects will already know what to look for.

ARTEMISIA - This plant produces a strong antiseptic, although not unpleasant aroma that repels most insects. Planted as a border, it can also deter small animals like Rabbits and moles.

BASIL -The oils in Basil are said to repel thrips, flies and mosquitoes. I plant basil along side my tomatoes for larger,
tastier tomatoes. 

BEE BALM- I love this plant because it attracts bees to my garden. It is another plant that you can grow with your Tomatoes.

BORAGE - This plant is a real gem in the garden. It repels Tomato horn worms and cabbage worms and attracts beneficial bees and wasps. Borage also adds trace elements to the soil.

CATNIP - This plant repels just about everything. You can use it to keep away flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants, and weevils.

CHIVES - Chives are one of my favorite herbs. You can plant Chives to repel Japanese beetles and carrot rust flies. It has also been said that Chives will help prevent scab when planted among apple trees.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS - When I do use an insecticide I use one made from chrysanthemums called pyrethrum. This all-natural pesticide can help control things like roaches, ticks, silverfish, lice, fleas, bedbugs, and I like to use it to control ants in certain parts of the garden. In the garden white flowering chrysanthemums are said to drive away Japanese beetles and C. coccineum, commonly known as Painted Daisy, kills root nematodes.

DAHLIAS - Dahlias repel nematodes and the blooms are great for adding some color to flower borders and fresh arrangements.

DILL - There is always a place for this plant in my garden. Dill is 
best planted with Cucumbers and Onions varieties. During the cool season It can also be planted with Lettuce. Dill attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps, and its foliage is used as food by swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. Tomato horn worms are also attracted to Dill, so if you plant it at a distance, you can help draw these destructive insects away from your Tomatoes. Dill repels aphids and spider mites. Sprinkling Dill leaves on squash plants will also repel squash bugs.

GARLIC - In addition to its great taste and health benefits, Garlic planted near roses repels aphids. It also deters codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. When planted alongside Onions, they also deter moles and mice.

HYSSOP - This is another one of my favorite plants. Hyssop is great for attracting honeybees to the garden.
Lavender - Lavender is a favorite among many beneficial insects and also repels fleas and moths.

MARIGOLDS - The Marigold is probably the most well known plant for repelling insects. French marigolds repel whiteflies and kill bad nematodes. Mexican marigolds are said to offend a host of destructive insects and wild rabbits as well. If you choose marigolds for your garden they must be scented to work as a repellant. And while this plant drives away many bad bugs, it also attracts spider mites and snails--which are good.

NASTURTIUMS- I plant Nasturtiums with my Tomatoes and
Cucumbers as a way to fight off wooly aphids, white flies, Squash
bugs, and Cucumber beetles. The flowers, especially the yellow blooming varieties, act as a trap for aphids.

PETUNIAS - They are great to look at, and repel Asparagus beetles, leaf hoppers, a range of aphids, Tomato worms, and a good many other pests.

ROSEMARY-Deters Cabbage moth, Bean beetles and the Carrot fly

SUNFLOWERS - I use Sunflowers as a way to draw aphids away from my other plants. Ants move their colonies onto Sunflowers. The Sunflowers are tough enough that they suffer no damage.

THYME-Deters Cabbage worm





21 HERB SEED VARIETY: Signature Series Non-Hybrid/Non-Gmo Herb Bundles VEGAN SEEDS ~PLOTTPALMTREES.COM


Write your comment
Enter the code in the box below: